On my last trip to the US I went to visit my parents in Florida in Anna Maria Island. They spend the winters there in tranquil heaven with an aquarium beach (dolphins 10 yards off shore), and golf courses in every direction.
After a couple of days catching up, I went with Beth to South Beach in Miami. I must say….I was a bit….under whelmed. Early in the “season”, it was busy but not the place I expected. I guess I thought things would be wilder or more fashionable (what a crap sentiment) or…just more edgy... or more....something. The Art Deco is there….but it doesn’t really dominate the way I had imagined. It also feels like everything undergoing some sort of regeneration….building works, jackhammers etc….
There is the beach…..but there are beaches everywhere and though big, wasn’t especially remarkable. (Except for the $45 sun lounges and umbrella rental, but the less said about that the better)
Over all, things were reasonably priced, though there is the irritating tendency to add 18% to every bill (even a cup of coffee) and an expectation that you’ll tip on top of that (expect a snooty hissy fit if you don't). Service was interesting. American waiters were studiously disinterested and got nada....Cuban staff were friendly, their game and managed to smile like they meant it...they got a tip.
I did visit a couple of “notable spots”- read everyone including the guidebooks tells you to go there- with varying degrees of interest:
Delano Hotel
http://www.delano-hotel.com/
It was described to me as “billowing sheets, 80s style- self conscious”. Well it was all that but sadly the hip crowd have moved on. Nice enough, but there was a rather self conscious couple sitting at a table in 6 inches of water, trouser legs rolled up, posing for all they were worth that seemed to sum the place up for me…. not many people noticed. The crowd was “dude I’m in Miami at a medical instrument convention”….I don’t say that with huge disdain, as I have been one of those meeting attendees myself (cringe) - it’s just so not the place it was trying to be. After a $10 vodka soda…I scuttled away.
A more interesting place, though, very high on the taking itself seriously scale, was “BED”
http://www.southbeach-usa.com/clubs/club-directory/bed.htm
It was surprisingly good food, and not too expensive…..but a bit up its own ass…though…in a good way…. I guess
A brief note….Collins Avenue and oceanfront are pretty swish and clean, but it can get a bit sad on Washington (three blocks up). This is where most of the hip clubs and restaurants magically appear at night amongst the tattoo parlours and people down on their luck (and I mean REALLY DOWN). A poignant reminder that all do not share in the plenty that South Beach seems to exude.
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