I managed to get down to Bourbon street for a couple of hours and I'm still scratching my head.
Its a frat party on steroids.
You walk down the street and watch the creme of trailer park society eat, drink and vomit.
Coctails with names like "Hurricane" and "Handgrenade" are sold in bright green takeaway containers.
Shuffling, weaving white people bump tatoos as they lurch from bar to bar.
Its 2pm on a Friday.
It was 4pm and already the paramedics were busy.
The street has live music in every third or fourth bar, and apart from the prevailing 1970's and 80's redneck theme, (think Lynyrd Skynyrd) there IS Jazz on Bourbon Street.
Away from the French Quarter (not very far away) I took a sweaty, melting walk through the "warehouse district". The condos are popping up here and there but it still has a kind of broken down interesting vibe.